There are moments everything is absolutely perfect. The air is exactly the right temperature, just before sunset, and everything is drenched in a red-golden light. You sit on red earth, waiting for the darkness to fall and a million stars to appear.
The view is breathtaking: black, shiny monoliths in the distance, a low intensely green forest lies before them, and in the middle a red road runs right through the green and looks as if it would lead straight into the sky, beyond the horizon. And while you sit in silence, contemplating, it’s difficult to hold back the tears for this beautiful, cursed country that hides its scars underneath scenes of divine splendour.
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